In 2018 I visited Polignano a Mare again. Again, it was for a brief "passing through" visit, but I knew then that I must come back for a longer stay. This year, it happened: a month in perhaps what is one of the most beautiful and evocatice cities of Puglia..
Nothing had changed. The routine was the same: pick up rental car, make our way out of Rome’s busy Leonardo Da Vinci airport and take the A12 highway north. It was the same pattern that we had followed countless times before. The silence this time made it different. Unlike the excited chatter between my husband
On arriving in Calabria for the first time, one most likely arrives with preconceived notions of a brutal and harsh reality probably formed by the millions of exiles that left in the past to find work or escape organized crime. I’ve come to Calabria many times, and most recently in 2015 I came on a
We ripped through the coastal towns of Abruzzo and Molise, on a mission to arrive before nightfall. We knew that driving in the dark with unlit winding roads and sheer perpendicular drops would not be the best way to travel along this promontory. I allowed myself to escape into memories, at least for a little while to